Late last summer, McCrady’s, the grande dame of haute cuisine and special-occasion splurge dining, shuttered its doors for a mysterious overhaul, reopening as a dual entity. The main dining room is now called McCrady’s Tavern, true to the original name of the 1778 establishment that’s spirit infuses its walls. (McCrady’s now designates the adjacent, hot-ticket, multicourse tasting room, which is not the subject of this review.) McCrady’s Tavern is, once again, a tavern.
Brunch at McCrady’s Tavern — reopened by the chef Sean Brock last summer with an eye toward the Gilded Age — comes with a side of history: George Washington ate here in 1791. While the exposed brick and timber of the circa 1778 Georgian building along busy East Bay look unchanged, the menu is respectfully modern. Try the house’s version of Charleston’s hallmark she-crab soup — blue crab bisque with vermouth and tarragon ($14) — before embarking on a fried pork chop sandwich ($13 including fries) or the daintier quiche Lorraine ($14).